Taron Birmans

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Birman FAQ Maintained by Ron & Nora Thayer Taron Birmans



When you use a camera with a built in flash it will cause the light to be reflected straight back to lens because it is on the same plain as the cats eye and the flash.

To eliminate the problem you will need a good 35mm or 4x5 format camera and a flash that can be mounted 4 to 6 inches above or to the right or left of the lens. The best are flash unites with heads that can be swiveled up to allow you to bounce the flash of the ceiling or wall. This will remove most of the red if the cats eyes are not to dilated. If the flash is mounted to far from the lens it will create shadows behind the subject

If you really want good results you will need 2 flash units. (I use 2 Pro Master strobes with defuser hoods.) These are mounted about 6 feet apart on 2 tripods slightly higher and pointed at the center of the surface used to pose the cats on.

One flash is connected to the camera with a six foot remote flash cord and the other is triggered by photocell slave unit. (The camera is an old manual Nikon F2 with a 75 to 200mm zoom lens.) A 50mm lens will work just fine.

Taron's Trio
Photo © Korporate Kats
Kitten Trio


Thunder and Tsu
Photo © Korporate Kats
Seal Point Kittens

For a stand to pose the cats on I use a low dresser in our bedroom. I hang a blue velour cloth over the mirror behind the dresser so that it drapes down and covers the top of the dresser.

You also need to use a good fine grained fairly slow speed film such as Kodak Royal Gold 100.

Thanks to: Dan & Nancy Newland Nusong Birmans

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Equipment Needed:

Claw clippers, 7" Greyhound comb with fine and course sides, small flea comb, 7" Untangler comb with revolving teeth, blow drier, texturizing spray (mixed 50 50 with distilled water in a small hair spray bottle), several large towels, wash rag, shampoo and Whitening shampoo, Dawn dish washing detergent, one small rubber mat, sink with hose and spray nozzle.

Begin by clipping the cats claws and combing out the coat. Leave the drain stopper out and place the small rubber mat in the bottom of the sink. Adjust the water flow and temp, should be warm but not hot. Place the cat in the sink and wet down the coat. Place a small quantity of the Dawn soap behind the ears where the coat looks oily and at the base of the tail. Work in thoroughly and carefully rinse out. Wet the wash rag and wash the cats face and ears, do not use any soap on the wash rag.

Place adequate amounts of the shampoo on the cat and work into the coat. Rinse thoroughly and repeat three more times working up a good lather all over the cat except for the face. Each time you lather up the cat wash the face and wipe out the inside of the ears with the wash rag.

Next wash the cats gloves and laces with the Whitening shampoo, also the light parts of the coat but avoid the face, tail and leg point color. Rinse the cat thoroughly and rinse again until the water runs clear with no trace of soap. Run your hands over the coat and squeeze out as much water as you can.

Gently dry the cat with the towels using two for this step. Next spray the cat lightly with the Bio-Groom being careful not to get any in the cats eyes. Spray some onto your hands and rub it into the ruff and chest area. The next operation may require two people.

Begin the blow drying at the neck with medium heat. Comb the coat backwards toward the head with the untangler comb gently while blow drying. Work towards the tale and doing the back and sides. Turn the cat over (this is where it may require a helper) and do the stomach work toward the tail making sure to get between the legs. Do not do the lower legs or paws yet. Next turn the cat over and while one person holds the cat up by the front legs from the rear, blow dry and comb between the front legs and lower chest.

Then set the cat down and hold its head slightly back and finish the chest, under the chin and ruff areas. Hold each leg out and using the flea comb blow dry and comb each leg and paw. Turn the blow drier on low and using the flea comb, dry and comb the ears and face area. Finish by drying the tail and combing it out . Make sure that the cat is completely dry, if not the coat may turn curly or it will not loft when combed.


Equipment Needed:

Claw clippers, flea comb, Greyhound comb course/fine, Antistat spray, Grooming powder, wash rag, slicker brush, grooming space or table.

Begin by washing the cats face, making sure that all the dirt is carefully removed from around the eyes nose and ears. Make sure the cats rear is also clean. Spray the antistat lightly onto the coat and tail avoiding the face area. Spray some onto your hands and rub it into the ruff. Work the grooming powder into the coat. Comb the coat backwards gently with the Greyhound comb starting at the neck and working back to and including the tail. Next do the stomach area, then the neck ruff and head. Use the flea comb on the ruff and face area. Comb the legs paws and laces with the flea comb. Comb the coat gently from head to tail with the Greyhound comb. Just before going to the ring take the slicker brush and comb the neck ruff and cheeks backwards towards the nose to fluff it up and use it to brush the laces from the paw to hock. Try to make the laces look as even as possible.

Except for washing the face, repeat this procedure before each ring. Also check the eyes nose and rear, remove any dirt that has accumulated.

If during the course of the show the areas behind the ear or the base of the tail begin to look oily, take some of the grooming powder and work it into the oily areas. Comb out thoroughly to remove any traces of the powder.

Thanks to: Dan & Nancy Newland Nusong Birmans

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Photography ©Korporate Kats, and Chanan